Having only four days in Paris was not nearly enough time for shopping, but Julien zipped us around on his motorcycle which allowed me to see much more than I would have on foot or by metro. It was a thrilling experience seeing the city this way and I felt so happy I could explode. I couldn't stop smiling and laughing at the wonder of all the action in the streets. There was a guy walk-bouncing on the back tire of his bike across the street (I forgot what that is called), someone dropping water balloons (water bombs they are called there) from a rooftop to the sidewalk below and so much more. I wish I could explain it, but it was like being in a film.
We first went to a famous old taxidermy shop, Deyrolle, rue du Bac, in the 7th arrondissement. It is an awe-inspiring, magical place that has been around since 1831. Last year, a terrible fire severely damaged the Cabinets of Curiosities (also known as Wunderkammer or wonder-rooms) as well as the entomology room and a large part of the historical collections. Deyrolle was saved because of the enthusiasm of so many of its fans including Hermes and numerous artists worldwide that contributed artwork for an auction done by Christie’s last November. Lucky for me, the reconstruction of the entomology room is completed and just reopened. Today, the store is as beautiful as ever, with still a collection of large mammals, magnificent mounted birds and other beautiful and astonishing natural wonders. There was a haunting photo exhibit of some of the burned animals, which was amazing and a clever way to salvage art from the charred remains. Photography in the shop is not allowed, but I managed to sneak in a few shots with my iPhone. www.deyrolle.com
Next we hit the latest and greatest (just opened in June) in Parisian concept stores, Merci, 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais in Le Marais. You can find unique pieces by Isabel Marant, Jérôme Dreyfuss, Marni, Paul & Joe, Stella McCartney, Swildens, Christian Tortu, YSL, to name a few, and apparently their profits go to charities in Madagascar. The Charity books section, lines the wall of the cafe where you can have a tea or coffee while reading. Books are second hand, in many languages and come from donations. There is also the Annick Goutal laboratory to create your own fragrance, an old fashion haberdashery shop where you can buy top buttons, ribbons and zippers and a flower shop by Christian Tortu. The home goods are amazing and they have the greatest selection of notebooks, which I tend to go overboard with. What more could you ask for? Except maybe records... www.merci-merci.com
One night of walking around window shopping, I found myself in the middle of a huge crowd for the grand viewing of the holdiay window displays at Printemps (a high end French department store), 102 Rue de Provence, in the 9th arrondissement. It reminded me of the mania of big movie premieres in Hollywood. There was red carpet and velvet ropes, a dj and a massive fireworks display to kick off the occasion. The windows were gorgeous and arty. My favorite was the one with mini Andy Warhols jumping around, playing music. Galeries Lafayette was the poor man's Printemps and had funny scenes with a cute gingerbread man. www.printemps.com
I have been on a hunt for French pop from the 60s, chanson française, from artists like Francoise Hardy, Serge Gainsbourg, Jane Birkin, Brigitte Bardot, Jacques Dutronc... After scouring record shops and flea markets all over Europe, I finally struck gold at Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, 48 rue Jules Vallès (Marché des Antiquaires, between the Porte de St-Ouen and Porte de Clignancourt, just outside 18th arrondissement). This is the world's biggest flea market and has literally everything you could dream of that Julien took me to on my last day in Paris. He warned me that it would be expensive. (Which it was!)
We went to the Marche Paul Bert, 18 rue Paul Bert or 96 rue des Rosiers where there were the most extraordinary antique furnishings. One of our favorites had really gorgeous old film lights and massive tables and light boxes. Rosiers Market, 3 rue Paul Bert is the place to find many Art Deco items.
Le Petite Maison Antiques is a shop on rue Paul Bert was very high end with more natural curiosities for sale and a beautiful garden. Serpette Market, 110 rue des Rosiers, is in the former garage of France's first Citroën dealer. Serpette has developed a reputation for fashionable goods and art nouveau of the highest quality, at prices regarded by some as excessive. Vernaison Market, 136 avenue Michelet, is a real maze of alleyways — some covered, others open to the elements and slightly more affordable than some of the neighboring markets.
Malik Market, 53 rue Jules Vallès, has more than 100 traders' stalls and is a mecca for clothes, attracting a younger crowd. Here, you can find military surplus, vintage leather jackets, incense, records, etc. The atmosphere is more like that of the Forum des Halles in Paris than that of a second-hand goods market. At the first stall we popped into, a couple of Nancy Sinatra records I have at home that cost me $5 US were 30 euros here. Yikes! There was a Brigitte Bardot record I wanted at the second stall that was 50 euros. Pass. Third time's a charm and there was a larger and well organized selection of chansons and I scored three great records--Francoise Hardy, Jane Birkin and Jacques Dutronc--for 10 euros each, plus the guy was friendly. So happy I could burst again! Paris, si bon!
No comments:
Post a Comment